{"id":324,"date":"2014-09-18T23:17:45","date_gmt":"2014-09-18T22:17:45","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.thecherryplumkitchen.com\/?p=324"},"modified":"2014-11-11T07:47:53","modified_gmt":"2014-11-11T07:47:53","slug":"chunky-chips","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.thecherryplumkitchen.com\/?p=324","title":{"rendered":"Chunky Chips"},"content":{"rendered":"
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Chunky chips, exactly as God intended – par-boiled and twice fried. \u00a0These are a world away from limp, greasy chips that sometimes appear under the same name.<\/p>\n

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These aren’t skinny French fries, known as ‘frites’ in my house. \u00a0(Does it help that the fat chip is a healthier choice than a thin one?)<\/em> \u00a0Nor, are they ‘potato chips’, which I would call ‘crisps’.) Or even potato wedges. \u00a0They are chips ‘proper’ and the traditional accompaniment to the British institution that is ‘fish and chips’ from a time when cod was not endangered and oysters were a cheap pie filler. \u00a0For all they are a part of my culinary heritage, chips apparently originate in either Belgium or France (and I’m not joining that debate) in the seventeenth century as a substitute for fish. \u00a0Fried fish arrived in London about the same time, brought by Jewish refugees, but that’s a post for a different day. \u00a0It’s enough that I’m truly grateful!<\/p>\n

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Making them begins with the potato. \u00a0Non-negotiable, in my opinion, is that it’s a ‘fluffy’ one. \u00a0From choice I like my potatoes covered in dirt – which naturally protects them from sunlight which is what turns them green – but these are a sanitised supermarket ‘Maris Piper’ buy. There’s a school of thought which suggests you need to soak them to rid them of starch, but I consciously don’t do that. \u00a0Potatoes absorb water and I don’t like a soggy tasting chip. \u00a0When I’m actually peeling I place the potatoes I’ve done in a bowl of water, but that’s it. \u00a0Just while I’m working. \u00a0You’re still left with some pretty murky water.<\/p>\n

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And then it’s on to the cutting. \u00a0Hand-cut isn’t just a gastro-pub gimmick. \u00a0The slightly mis-shapen end bits are deliciously crunchy and an absolute positive. \u00a0My mum cut hers crinkly. \u00a0I cut mine straight. \u00a0Either way, you are looking for something about a finger-width.<\/p>\n

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Now put the cut chips into a saucepan of fresh, salted water and bring to the boil. \u00a0Turn the heat down and gently simmer until the sharp point of a knife goes in easily. \u00a0It’s impossible to be specific because how long depends on the thickness you’ve cut and your choice of potato. \u00a0(On the Aga – bring to the boil, then drain entirely and pop the potato into the Simmering Oven.)<\/p>\n

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Drain. \u00a0There’s no need to be particularly gentle because where the edges break up you’ll get the loveliest crispy bits, exactly the same as when you par-boil for roast potatoes.<\/p>\n

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As soon as they are cool enough to handle, lay them out cooling racks. \u00a0Heston Blumenthal, who popularised the triple-cooked chip here in the UK, says to let them steam-dry, then lay them on a rack and put them in the freezer for an hour. \u00a0The object of that is get rid of as much moisture as is possible. \u00a0Since I’m cooking ‘chips for seven’ I rarely have the freezer space available to do that, but leaving them to go cold at room temperature is effective – and paces the work in a way I like! \u00a0So, coffee break \u2026.!<\/p>\n

\"Chips<\/a><\/p>\n

Fortified by caffeine, it’s time to set up the deep fat fryer. \u00a0Here’s another non-negotiable. \u00a0Beef dripping is my fat of choice because the flavour it adds is wonderful. \u00a0It’s a bit gruesome to see quite how much you need – but then you never have harboured the illusion chips are a healthy option, have you? \u00a0For my deep fat fryer I need twice the amount I’ve photographed here. \u00a0In weight terms, it’s a 3kg block. \u00a0Put your cold beef dripping into a large saucepan and, over a gentle heat, melt it.<\/p>\n

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Then pour the melted fat into the fryer. \u00a0Bring the fat up to a temperature of 130\u00baC-ish (I say ‘ish’ because that’s too low for my fryer to register on the dial. \u00a0Fry in small batches. \u00a0‘Small’ because you want to avoid causing the oil to drop in temperature.<\/p>\n

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You are looking for them to look like this. \u00a0No colour to speak of, but a slight ‘skin’. \u00a0Drain onto kitchen paper. \u00a0It should gladden your heart to see there is really very little fat on the paper towel. \u00a0As before, Heston would have you put it the freezer. \u00a0If I had the space I’d think about the fridge. \u00a0As it is, I lay them back out on cooling racks as soon as I can handle them. Or – and this is one of the reasons I’m reluctant to try Nigella Lawson’s ‘cold oil’ method – it’s now perfectly possible to put the whole lot in a plastic box and pop them in the fridge for a couple of days. \u00a0Or, of course, you could freeze them.<\/p>\n

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When you are ready, heat the beef dripping to 190\u00baC. \u00a0In small batches once again, fry to a finish.<\/p>\n

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These took 8 minutes. \u00a0Drain.<\/p>\n

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And serve – with home-made tomato ketchup. \u00a0Or tartare sauce. \u00a0Or choron sauce . \u00a0But definitely malt vinegar and malden salt.<\/p>\n

Chunky Chips<\/strong> – Serves as many as you have to feed!<\/em><\/p>\n